A flood of taste makers descended on the Streets of Paris this weekend to view the Fall 2015 Haute Couture collections. A little more than a dozen Fashion Houses meet the strict requirements that must be met to present a Haute Couture collection – French for “High Sewing” collection. All the looks shown in Haute Couture collections are custom-made for private clients as opposed to ready-to-wear collections that are made in standard sizes and readily available in boutiques.
Haute Couture is strict and demanding in its level of craftsmanship and, by default, exclusive. It requires the utmost in tailoring and attention to detail. The selection of materials, balance of proportions and intricacy of sculptural cuts help to define haute couture, and the collections are often recognized for their extravagance, theatrics and complex and innovative techniques.
To keep the concept of haute couture fresh, “official” members vote to allow “newcomers” to show among the more venerable names throughout the course of the week, giving validation to these newer names.
Creative Director Raf Simmons fused art, history and fashion for Christian Dior’s 2015-2016 Fall/Winter Haute Couture collection. Flowy silk, taffeta and draped gowns, cowl necked cloaks in dark purple and black, short taffeta dresses with sleeves pinched at the wrists and heavy gold chain necklaces were a few of the looks that appeared on the lilac runway in a medieval take on the garden of earthly delights. The pièce de résistance were commanding cashmere coats in eye-catching hues with sweeping and pronounced mink sleeves. “I was intrigued by the idea of forbidden fruit and what that meant now,” said Simmons. “The idea of purity and innocence versus luxury and decadence and how that is encapsulated by the idea of Dior’s garden – no longer a flower garden, but a sexual one.”
Schiaparelli‘s latest collection proves that fun and elegance can coincide in perfect harmony. The elegance of the 1930’s and 1940’s drove this collection that included multiple references to the trademark icons used by Elsa herself over the years – a manicured hand, stars and keyholes, for example.
A striking intarsia mink coat with patches of pink fox and an even bolder intarsia mink coat integrating colorful treatments of fox and long-haired goat reflected a fresh creativity and a skilled artistic hand. Flowing chiffon gowns, extreme plunging necklines, tartans and capes expanded on the vision of French designer Bertrand Guyon’s debut Haute Couture collection for esteemed fashion house Schiaparelli. Guyon gave a wink to Elsa Schiaparelli’s close friendship with surrealist painter Salvador Dali in the 36 piece collection as evidenced in the trompe l’oueil Tears print that was designed for her by the painter. “What interested me were these austere, simple, lesser known silhouettes , which don’t immediately remind us of Elsa Schiaparelli,” said Guyon. The intarsia mink skirt featuring the abstract portrait was pure perfection.
A baby-blue mink maxi coat worn cheekily over a soft pink bustier dress, over-sized handbags embellished with satin ice cream cones, midi-dresses with pleated ruffles, sheer tops with exposed breasts, mile-high Christian Louboutins with furry mink puffs and her trademark sweetheart necklines were hallmarks of Ulyana Sergeenko’s 2015 Couture collection. A voluminous sheared beaver cocoon coat oozed extravagant comfort. Mink and sable collars and mink pom-pom details added just the right drama and decadence. Russian designer Sergeenko’s house has been hard hit financially by the turbulent Ruble but she still managed to deliver a collection strong on luxury and elegance. Perhaps in an attempt at irony, this collection was inspired by the Soviet-era communal apartments where Aristocrats were forced to live side-by-side with working class folk. A hint of that inspiration was shown in a simple black coatdress.
Donatella sent out a parade of fierce goddesses for Atelier Versace’s Haute2015-2016 fall Couture show. Inspired by flora and fauna of the forest, models with flowy nymph-like tresses adorned with flowered crown headpieces strutted down a glass paneled catwalk, many in knee-high go-go boots, with 26,000 orchids underneath. Voluminous tiered skirts, flared silk sleeves, floaty skirts and wrought iron bodices in soft, feminine hues of gray, apple green, pinks and tangerines were a sampling of the looks shown in the strong, frothy collection.
Giorgio Armani for Armani Prive solidified his position as the king of red-carpet dressing with his Haute Couture show in Paris. Satin gowns, jacquard skirts and liberal feathered fringing were the foundation upon which he built his vision for this collection. Fuchsia pink, deep blues, purples and blacks dominated the color palette in the 47-piece collection. Long evening dresses embroidered with Swarovski crystals, sequins, feathers and an array of luxe embellishments delivered his trademark sophisticated elegance, but with a fresh, punkish vibe. Perhaps thinking of the recent ban of flats on the Cannes red carpet, Armani showed nothing else. Pointed flat mules were worn with velvet trousers and velvet smoking room slippers were worn with ball gowns.
Frothy, multi-colored fur feather asymmetrical tops, a few worn with high waisted trousers and voluminous culottes and a striped silk coat were a few stand out looks shown in Moroccon born designer Bouchra Jarrar Haute Couture’s 2016 show. Her signature draping alongside liberal pleating and innovative silhouettes in pale blues, yellows, pinks and black were mixed up with daywear, sportswear and evening wear. A dark blue, long flowy dress embroidered with crystals and a practically bare-backed number bisected by a gold leather strap showed off Jarrar’s couture talents.
source : www.furinsider.com
All eyes on the Fendi HAUTE FOURRURE fashion show
Fendi Haute Fourrure Show 2015-2016 (video)
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