Designers reimagine fur Spring 2016

13 October of 2015 by

With more and more designers embracing fur for spring, the season is increasingly becoming a go-to for innovative furs that bring a fresh perspective to the luxurious material. The SS16 collections confirmed this as fashion houses looked to mink and fox to create statement pieces that not only transformed well-known fur looks but breathed new craftsmanship life into spring’s floral theme and utilised the clean beauty of sheared mink.

In terms of fashion emblems, few things are as classic as the fur coat, but Phobe Philo literally turned the wardrobe icon around in her collection for Céline, where a white mink coat first appeared on the runway worn backwards before being shown the right way around. With its black silk lining, extra long sleeves and loosely tied belt, it had the casually elegant air of a dressing gown about it – a brilliant juxtaposition of the wildly glamorous and laid-back.


Similarly, the stole – another fur icon – was given a cool, new interpretation at Miu Miu. Models walked out with Arctic Marble Frost Fox dyed in electric blue or royal purple wrapped diagonally across their bodies, but instead of one tail the stoles had two: one dyed in a contrasting colour and a smaller one striped like a raccoon. The effect lent a modern irreverence to the ladylike piece, underscoring Miuccia Prada’s play on conservative dress codes.

Arctic Marble Frost Fox also made an appearance at Saint Laurent, hung softly around the shoulders as a short cape and dyed in a pale lemon sorbet. It was the perfect accent to Hedi Slimane’s silk-slips-and-tiaras-take on Glastonbury grunge, which also included an elevated take on the early nineties thrift store fringed leather jacket, reimagined with black mink inserts.


At Fendi, the fur masterminds that are Silvia Venturini Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld sent out the ideal way to wear fur in a warm climate: sheared mink, criss-crossed like airy rattan basketwork and constructed into little pillar box red jackets and open-weave black coats. The stunning craftsmanship was echoed in handbags with braided mink straps and vertiginous heels dotted with colourful mink flowers.

The sleek appeal of sheared mink also caught the eye of Christopher Bailey at Burberry Prorsum, who showed a black jacket, fastened at the collarbone with a gold chain and set off by a hi-tech mesh collar – opulence meets sporty functionality. Jason Wu’s sleeveless mink pieces embraced a similar streamlined mood and paid homage to American sportswear in belted wrap pieces that allowed the beauty of the fur to shine.


There is a famous scene in The Devil Wears Prada where Miranda Priestly, the steely editor-in-chief of the fictionalRunway magazine, is presented with an idea for a story on flower prints by her team and sarcastically retorts: “Florals? For spring? Groundbreaking.” If Ms Priestly had been at the Spring 2016 shows she would no doubt have had a different response, as designers are using fur to put an exciting new spin on the well-known pattern. AtGucci, where Alessandro Michele’s romantic dream world has set an Italian fashion renaissance in motion, a classic brown mink coat with a green intarsia leaf stem crawling up the front was symbolic of the new ideas that now grow at the house of Gucci. Elsewhere, the designer adorned his embroidered outerwear with brown mink cuffs – somewhat of a signature of his already.


Another house currently making headlines is Oscar de la Renta, where Peter Copping had painstakingly pieced together mink tiles to create coats with sprawling flower motifs, faintly echoing the frothy carnations that were placed on each seat. It was the perfect outerwear for his fresh, swoon-worthy gowns and beautifully showcased fur’s endless creative possibilities.


Flowers were also blooming at Thom Browne: here, the designer drew on uniforms and Eastern aesthetics to create a sheared mink cape with pastel stripes and intarsia blossoms. For Dolce & Gabbana, the colourful buds of spring popped up on a bejewelled intarsia mink bag, while mink was also used as a chic grey collar on a red crochet skirt suit and fashioned into vibrant lemon and orange fruit bag charms – the bag accessories you’ll be seeing everywhere come spring.

View more Spring 2016 images from Catwalk Gallery, click here


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